Devon A. Mihesuah and
Elizabeth Hoover, eds. Indigenous Food
Sovereignty in the United States: Restoring Cultural Knowledge, Protecting
Environments, and Regaining Health. Foreword by Winona LaDuke. University
of Oklahoma Press, 2019. 390 pp. ISBN: 9780806163215.
https://www.oupress.com/books/15107980/indigenous-food-sovereignty-in-the-united-sta
In
her 1999 book, All Our Relations: Native
Struggles for Land and Life, Winona LaDuke introduces her discussion of
environmental issues and the negative impacts of colonization (both direct and
indirect) on Indigenous communities. She explains "The last 150 years have seen
a great holocaust. There have been more species lost in the past 150 years than
since the Ice Age. During the same time, Indigenous peoples have been
disappearing from the face of the earth" (1). Her book from 20 years ago
addresses ongoing issues that are still present today, though she poses
questions and possibilities of hope for the future of Native tribes. Similarly,
she writes "the survival of Native America is fundamentally about the
collective survival of all human beings. The question of who gets to determine
the destiny of the land, and of the people who live on it--those with the money
and those who prey on the land--is a question that is alive throughout society"
(5). LaDuke's investigation of this division highlights a topic that is still
alive today, and Indigenous Food
Sovereignty in the United States is a text that continues the discussion
because it addresses this question, highlights the activism and goals currently
in place in 2019, and demonstrates hope for the future of tribal communities
who do not own the land or officiate neoliberal practices, but resist the power
structures that do. Winona LaDuke writes in this text's foreword:
Despite the $13
billion corporate food industry, 70 percent of the world's food is grown by
families, peasants, and Indigenous farmers...In a time when agrobiodiversity has
crashed and world food systems are filled with poisons, our seeds remain, and
they return. These are our stories: stories of love and hope (xiv).
LaDuke's
role as an economist, environmentalist, feminist, and activist demonstrates how
close she is to the topics that this edited collection addresses. Her foreword
to the book emphasizes the idea of returning to Indigenous food practices and
the ways that individuals or communities have actively initiated these
processes to counter the extreme damages from the food industry. Similarly,
LaDuke's work and the work highlighted in Indigenous
Food Sovereignty reflect not only a desire to change a heavily flawed
corporate system, but the authors also draw attention to public practices that
are enacting these changes.
Devon
A. Mihesuah's and Elizabeth Hoover's edited collection discusses important
concepts surrounding the commodification and marketization of food in the
United States, specifically emphasizing the negative impact colonization has
had on the decline of tribal communities' environmentally conscious and healthy
practices. This book significantly foregrounds public projects that aim to
restore food sovereignty to Native American people, and it functions as both a
criticism of neoliberalism and as a hopeful message about the growing changes
activism can bring. Mihesuah and Hoover set up their book by directly blaming
colonial systems of operation at both the state and federal levels for the loss
of Indigenous food practices and the statistically proven decline in Native
people's health. They write that "Over the past several centuries, colonialism
has unleashed a series of factors that have disrupted Indigenous communities'
ability to retain control of their food systems. In many cases, this
interruption was intentional" (4). The authors then follow up with moments from
history that have either directly or indirectly enforced the decline in
Indigenous food practices, including the forced introduction of boarding
schools, relocation programs in the 1950s, environmental change brought about
by industrial practices, and U.S. governmental food rations (5-6).
Unfortunately, these federal and state practices that have intentionally
labeled Native people as subordinate individuals on their own lands have also
heightened neoliberal practices and have led to an emphasis on the economy that
dehumanizes those that are forced to participate in it.
Neoliberalism
embeds in its structures a system that continues the marginalization of
communities by not permitting much room for social or economic mobility. In a
section about the transformation of food production in Alaska Native
communities, Melanie M. Lindholm explores the shift in morals and the economic
damages that a neoliberal, corporatized system of food production has created.
She explains that Alaska Natives have traditionally hunted in the cold climate,
specifically relying upon a healthy, marine-based diet, and they typically
utilize all parts of the animal to avoid being wasteful (161). The differences
between tradition and the contemporary economization of food therefore
signifies an increasing amount of waste, a system that does not value animals
beyond their food profit, and a forced assimilation for those who must
participate in the market in order to achieve success. Lindholm explains that
the "combination of corporate control over what foods are available, who can
afford them, and how they are produced can be termed nutritional colonization
because it exploits people's labor, health, environment, and well-being" (162).
Thus, this chapter (and others in the book like it) addresses the issues
Indigenous communities experience when they feel forced to assimilate to a
system ruled by profit and the commodification of traditional skills.
Similarly, this marketization of food preparation and consumption attempts to
erase tribal practices and, in effect, distances descendants from the cultural
traditions of their ancestors.
In
an attempt to advocate for a return to food structures through Indigenous
sovereignty
after
the damages of colonial practices and political structures have taken a toll on
diverse tribal communities throughout the country, Mihesuah and Hoover
incorporate interviews from members of different tribes who detail their
personal experiences with food systems and their goals to attain Indigenous
food sovereignty. Stories that account for working in the food industry but
advocating for Native dishes alongside European or American ones, exercising
treaty rights to fish, and criticizing the unhealthy commodity foods from the
USDA are among stories that make this text powerful, homing in on issues that
impact people both systematically and individually (37-40). By acknowledging
that discriminatory food practices and poor health conditions on reservations
and among poverty-stricken Native communities are direct results of
colonization, Mihesuah and Hoover place direct blame on the ways that a
profit-driven market negatively impacts the people who had been exercising
effective food and ecological practices long before settler colonialism. The
stories and research within this book therefore demonstrate the direct
engagement of the authors with the public, and they also reflect the public's
collective concerns about maintaining knowledge of traditional food practices
so that diverse Native cultures can continue to persist, despite the U.S.
systems that attempt to erase their history and dominate their lifestyles.
In
another chapter about the decline of health among Indigenous peoples, Mihesuah
explains the ambitions of the food sovereignty movement as follows:
To be a 'food
sovereign' tribe would ultimately mean, then, that the tribe has the right to
control its food production, food quality, and food distribution. It would
support tribal farmers and ranchers by supplying machinery and technology
needed to plant and harvest. The tribe would not be answerable to state
regulatory control, and would follow its own edicts, regulations, and ways of
governance. Its members would have educational and job opportunities (95).
Rather
than simply acknowledging and critiquing a flawed system that privileges one
group of people over another, this book poses a solution to the problem and
explains that there is hope in enacting a reclamation of some tribal
sovereignty. Thus, this text contributes an important message about public
engagement in practice and the various ways communities can advocate for their
rights to control the land and the systems of food production that their
ancestors once maintained a successful, unopposed authority over. This text
relates to ongoing discussions within food studies and public intellectual
studies because it identifies individual and public concerns of people living
in a society dominated by consumerism and the marketization of everyday items
or practices.
In
the context of Mihesuah's and Hoover's work, someone examining the problematic
role of major corporations on public consumption could read this text within
the context of the capital power the food industry exerts
on U.S. society. This book demonstrates that food has become a commodity that
no longer revolves around utilizing available resources in the environment
while being as resourceful as possible with the products, and it has instead
become heavily integrated within the neoliberal market system that works to
generate finances. In this way, public engagement practices like the ones
listed throughout this text advocate for Indigenous food sovereignty and work
to disrupt the system of commodification that rests on mass production and the
waste of materials.
Furthermore,
Mihesuah and Hoover connect their ideas about public intellectualism and public
practice to larger problems within federal and state systems that emphasize
commodity culture on a wide variety of levels. They highlight that initiatives
with motives to reclaim sovereignties mean different things for different
levels of activism. While Indigenous people are facing challenges from the
colonial ideologies set in place for oppression, their communities remain
resistant to these structures and have initiated movements to reclaim
traditions that enforce cultural continuity. Mihesuah and Hoover explain that,
"[i]n the Native American context, whether as
sovereign nations or 'domestic dependents'... tribes have been integrating the
struggle for food sovereignty into broader efforts of self-determination" (10).
This idea of self-determination reoccurs throughout the book--emphasizing
Indigenous communities' goals to resist federal contexts that label them as
dependent or incapable of being self-sufficient. In fact, this text boldly and
accurately blames the European influences of colonization for many of the major
challenges the U.S. is experiencing, but also for issues that influence the
larger global structure. By identifying concerns across the U.S., including
Arctic regions, the authors make a strong argument in favor of Indigenous
communities who "view traditional foods as being affected by political,
economic, environmental, and other changes in the world" and should therefore
be protected (165).
Mihesuah's
and Hoover's text therefore acts as a work of resistance, both by advocating
for a return to Indigenous food sovereignty and by demonstrating how people are
engaging with this movement throughout the country. This work will be
beneficial for students, scholars, and wider public audiences who are
particularly interested in concepts of tribal sovereignty, political systems of
oppression, and public engagement that intends to challenge those very systems
that have been negatively impacting marginalized groups. Thus, Indigenous Food Sovereignty in the United
States is a detailed text that effectively conveys hope for the future of
Indigenous communities while criticizing colonial practices--emphasizing that
there are serious repercussions for abandoning tradition, and there is
beneficial power in reclaiming Indigenous authority over food and environmental
practices.
Katie
Wolf, University of Nevada, Reno
Work
Cited
LaDuke,
Winona. All Our Relations: Native Struggles for Land and Life. South End
Press, 1999.